To take effective crime scene photos in FORENSIC - M.E. Protocol, you must master the three core shot types—Overall, Mid-Range, and Close-Up—while perfectly balancing focus, framing, and exposure for each piece of evidence. The game is notoriously punishing, and unlike TV procedurals, a good photograph isn't just about pointing and shooting; it's about telling a clear, objective story that will hold up during your final analysis. A successful photo is confirmed by a subtle musical cue, and once an item is documented correctly, you cannot photograph it again.
Many new investigators earn a failing grade on their first few cases because the game's tutorial is deliberately sparse, leaving you to learn the hard way. This guide breaks down the exact methodology required to move from a flustered F-rank beginner to a meticulous S-rank professional, ensuring every snapshot earns you the maximum score.
Understanding Your M.E. Camera Kit
Your success hinges on using the right tool for the right job. The camera isn't a singular object but a system of lenses and light sources. While the game limits you to carrying only two main tools at a time—a major source of frustration for many players—the camera and its functions are always accessible. Selecting the wrong lens or forgetting to use your alternate light source is a guaranteed way to miss crucial evidence.
The 24mm Wide-Angle Lens: Your Workhorse for Overviews
This is your default lens and is used for the crucial first step at any scene: the Overall photo. Its purpose is to capture the entire area, showing the layout of the room and the general position of evidence before you've placed any markers. Think of it as an establishing shot in a film. You need to take several of these from different corners of the scene, including one from the entry point, to provide a complete picture of the environment as you found it.
The 90mm Macro Lens: For the Smallest Details
When you need to get an extreme close-up of a specific piece of evidence—a shell casing, a fabric fiber, a tool mark on a door frame—you must switch to the 90mm Macro Lens. This lens allows for the granular detail required for lab analysis. Crucially, every close-up shot must include a scale or ruler. Before taking a macro shot, you must place an evidence marker and then a small ruler next to the object. Forgetting the scale is one of the most common mistakes and will invalidate your photo, forcing you to retake it.
The UV Forensic Light: Revealing the Unseen
Many of the most critical clues are invisible to the naked eye. Bodily fluids, latent fingerprints, and chemical residues only become visible under ultraviolet light. Your UV Forensic Light is a separate tool, not a camera lens, but it's an essential part of your photographic process. Sweep every surface with the UV light. When you find a trace that fluoresces, you must photograph it while the UV light is active. These shots are critical for achieving an S-rank and often reveal the true nature of a crime.
Infographic: The three pillars of how to take crime scene photos.
The Three Pillars of Crime Scene Photography
Real-world forensic procedure divides photography into three distinct categories, and FORENSIC - M.E. Protocol adheres to this methodology strictly. Missing even one type of shot for a key piece of evidence will penalize your final score. You need to document every important item with this three-step process.
1. Overall Photos: Capturing the Big Picture
As mentioned, these are your first shots upon entering a scene. Using the 24mm wide-angle lens, your goal is to document the entire area from multiple vantage points. These photos answer the question: "Where are we?" They show the relationship between the room, the entrances/exits, and the general location of the body and major evidence items. Do not place any evidence markers before taking these shots.
2. Mid-Range Photos: Linking Evidence Together
After your Overall shots, you can begin placing evidence markers. The Mid-Range photo, also called a relationship shot, frames a single piece of evidence along with a fixed, recognizable landmark in the scene. For example, a photo that shows the pistol on the floor (with its marker) and also includes the leg of the nearby coffee table. This shot answers the question: "Where is this evidence in relation to its surroundings?" It proves the evidence hasn't been moved and establishes its spatial context.
3. Close-Up Photos: The Devil in the Details
Finally, the Close-Up shot. Switch to your 90mm macro lens and place a scale next to the evidence marker. The camera must be positioned at a perfect 90-degree angle to the evidence to avoid distortion. This photo should fill the frame with the object, capturing any identifying marks, serial numbers, or unique characteristics. It answers the question: "What, specifically, is this piece of evidence?" This is the shot that will be used for detailed analysis back at the lab.
Analysis Report Poster: Detailing the four scoring criteria for photos in the game.
How the Game Scores Your Photos
The scoring system in FORENSIC - M.E. Protocol is opaque but consistent. Achieving an S-rank on a case requires near-perfect documentation. Every photo you submit is graded on four hidden metrics, and your final case score is an aggregate of your performance across all collected evidence.
Your photo score is primarily based on these four factors:
- Relevance: Did you photograph a key piece of evidence, or just a random piece of trash? Taking pictures of irrelevant objects can actually penalize you. The game expects you to distinguish between clues and clutter.
- Framing & Composition: Is the evidence centered? For close-ups, is the object (and the scale) fully in the frame and shot from a 90-degree angle? For mid-range shots, is the relationship to a landmark clear? Awkward angles or cutting off part of the evidence will lower your score.
- Focus: Is the image sharp? The camera has a manual focus mechanic. A blurry photo is a useless photo, and the game is ruthless in punishing out-of-focus shots. Wait for the focus indicator to turn green before snapping the picture.
- Exposure: Is the image too bright or too dark? Many crime scenes are poorly lit. You must adjust your camera's exposure settings to ensure the details are visible. An overexposed (too bright) or underexposed (too dark) photo will obscure data and result in a penalty.
Getting all four of these elements right for a single photo results in the highest point value and the tell-tale audio confirmation.
A Step-by-Step Walkthrough: Case 1, "The Playground"
The first proper case after the tutorial throws many players for a loop. Let's apply the principles to the key evidence in this scene to secure a high grade.
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Overall Shots First: Upon entering the playground area, before touching anything, take at least four Overall photos with the 24mm lens. Get one from the gate, one from behind the slide, and two from opposing corners, ensuring the victim's body and the scattered items are visible in each.
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Documenting the Victim: Approach the body. Take a Mid-Range shot that shows the victim in relation to the base of the slide. Then, switch to the 90mm macro lens. You will need to take separate Close-Up shots of the victim's visible injuries, placing a scale next to each one before photographing.
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The Dropped Toy Car: A small red toy car lies near the swings. This is a key piece of evidence. First, take a Mid-Range shot showing the car and the base of the swing set. Then, place a marker and a scale. Take a 90-degree Close-Up with the macro lens.
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UV Evidence on the Slide: Equip your UV Forensic Light. Shine it on the surface of the slide itself. You will notice a set of handprints that are invisible in normal light. You must photograph these prints with the UV light still active to properly document them. This is a commonly missed piece of evidence that is essential for an S-rank.
Infographic: Key photo locations for Case 1, The Playground.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are my photos getting rejected? The most common reasons are being in the wrong position, using the wrong lens, or forgetting a required element. For close-ups, you absolutely must place a scale and shoot from a 90-degree angle. For mid-range shots, ensure a background landmark is clearly visible. If a photo of a gun filling the screen is rejected, you're likely standing in the wrong spot; the game can be finicky about the exact position you need to be in.
How many photos should I be taking per case? There is no magic number, but more is not always better. Photographing irrelevant items will hurt your score. A good rule of thumb is to take three photos (Overall, Mid-Range, Close-Up) for every single piece of evidence you intend to collect or analyze. Plus, at least four initial Overall shots of the entire scene.
What's the point of taking a picture of evidence without the marker first? This is a real-world forensic principle the game simulates. The initial photos without markers or scales serve to document the scene exactly as it was found. This proves that you, the investigator, did not alter the evidence's position before you began processing it. The photos with markers are for organizational and analytical purposes.
Final Analysis
Mastering photography in FORENSIC - M.E. Protocol is less about artistic skill and more about rigid, methodical procedure. The game rewards patience and a strict adherence to the Overall, Mid-Range, and Close-Up workflow. Once you internalize this rhythm—and stop forgetting to place your scale for macro shots—you'll find your case scores improving dramatically. The frustration of the early game gives way to the deep satisfaction of piecing together a crime, with your perfectly captured photos serving as the foundation for your entire investigation.